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CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY ARCHIVE

Section IV: Africa Missions

Part 16: South Africa Mission, 1836-1843, Kenya Mission, 1841-1888 and Nyanza Mission, 1876-1882

Part 17: Kenya Mission, 1880-1934

Part 18: Kenya Mission, 1880-1934

Part 19: Taganyika Mission, 1900-1934, Nyanza Mission, 1880-1886 and Rwanda Mission, 1933-1934

 

Introduction to Part 16

Part 16 covers the papers for the South Africa Mission, 1836-1843, the Kenya Mission, 1841-1888 and the Nyanza Mission, 1876-1882. Later papers for the Kenya and Nyanza Missions are in Parts 17-19.

South Africa Mission, 1836-1843

The Letter Book, 1836-1841 contains copies of outgoing correspondence from Secretaries at headquarters to missionaries and others. Most letters are instructions to new missionaries such as Rev W Hewetson and Mr and Mrs R Philips.

The Mission Book for 1836-1843 is also included. The Original Papers were copied in full into Mission Books for the use of the committee in London. Some of the originals copied into the Mission Book were presented to the South African government in 1921 and are now kept in Cape Town. Letters included are those from Rev F Owen on his arrival at Table Bay, the forming of the mission and his journal for March 1837; some very long and detailed journals of Rev F Owen for 1837-1840; journals of Rev W Hewetson for 1838; Rev R Philips’ fascinating journals and letters for 1838 describing his work among the Zulus.

The Original Papers for 1837-1843 consist of the papers sent by the mission secretary to headquarters in London. They contain a rich mixture of journals, letters and miscellaneous papers describing the work of the missionaries and their interaction with the people. Miscellaneous papers include those of Church Missionary Society Associations concerning the establishment of CMS. There are also copies of local newspapers such as the Graham’s Town Journal – some copies for 1837-1839; South African Commercial Advertiser – some copies for 1837 and 1838; Cape of Good Hope Government Gazette – one copy for July 1838.

Papers of missionaries cover:

Wallace Hewetson – Journal of his voyage to South Africa, 1837, letter re his son’s death, 1837, journals for 1838-1840 including the description of the murder of Mr Retief, commander of the Dutch, by Dingaan in 1838 and the journey to Ambanasti, 1838.

Rev Francis Owen - Letters for 1839-1840 and 1842 with details on a dispute between W Hewetson and R Philips, a description of the behaviour of Mr and Mrs Philips, 1839 and a copy of the journal for February– March 1838 re Dingaan’s killing of the Boers.

Robert Philips - Letters re the treatment of Mrs Edwards, journals for 1838-1839 describing his voyage out and trek up the Orange River in 1839.

Kenya Mission, 1841-1888

The Letter Books comprise an Individual Letter Book, 1863, 1867-1868, 1870, 1881, 1888 which contains personal letters, such as those of condolence or censure to individual missionaries from the Secretary in London and two Letter Books, 1842-1883 which contain copies of outgoing correspondence from Secretaries at headquarters to missionaries and others. Most letters are instructions to new missionaries recently arrived at the mission. An index to names is included.

The Mission Books, 1842-1880 consist of copies of the Original Papers sent by the mission secretary to headquarters in London. They contain letters and journals copied in full for the use of the committee in London with a note of receipt for the financial papers. An index to names is included. Annual Letters for 1876-1879 are pasted into the back of the volume.

Letters from missionaries such as Rev J J Muhleisen, Rev J C Muller, Rev J Warburton, Rev C W Isenberg, Rev J W Handford, Rev J A Lamb, Commander William F A H Russell, Rev H K Binns are included. They give information on the evangelical, medical and educational work and contain much on the development of Freretown as a place for the reception and training of freed slaves. Much interesting detail is given on the scenery, way of life and customs of the people in the very detailed journals of missionaries such as Rev J J Muhleisen, Rev C W Isenberg and Rev J Rebmann. Rev J Krapf gives a long detailed account of his trip to the Wanika tribe at Rabai, his excursions to Dshembo and Dshogni 1845 and includes notes on Zanzibar and slavery. Another journal recounts his excursion to Rabai, Empia and journey to Ukambani in 1849. Rev J Rebmann’s letters and journals describe his journey into the northern parts of the Wanika country with notes on the customs of the people and a journey to Madjame in 1849. Very interestingly the papers also include a letter from Dr David Livingstone about the rediscovery of a lake called Shireva in 1859 and included also are letters to and from Dr J Kirk, British consul-general in Zanzibar.

The Original Papers, 1841-1880 contain the papers sent by the mission secretary to headquarters in London. They consist mostly of letters, journals and reports of missionaries and others such as catechists, schoolmasters, doctors and lay agents. Included also are minutes and miscellaneous papers. The papers are arranged alphabetically by individual.

Some of the individuals included are listed below with an idea of the type of correspondence to be found in their papers:

Rev George Percy Badger, chaplain - miscellaneous

Rev Henry Kerr Binns – visits to Godoma, Jilori and Annual Letters for 1878-1879.

Francis Bourazan, catechist - miscellaneous.

Rev William Bartlett Chancellor - miscellaneous

George David, catechist – an account of the Ugnaro custom of the Wangika tribe, 1879, a translation of a petition from Christians at Godoma, 1880, a report of a visit to Godoma, June 1875.

Rev John James Erhardt - map of the Rabai country, 1852, journal of his journey to Usambara and three months’ stay with the king of the country, Kmeri, 1853; extract of a journal kept at Tanga, 1854.

Edward Wood Forster, medical missionary - report on the new mission station of Freretown, July 1875, quarterly reports of the medical mission work carried out in Mombasa, 1875-1876.

John William Handford, schoolmaster - letters re his arrival, the school, the pupils and the work, a description of a journey to Giriama in 1878 with an account of the burial and marriage customs, Annual Letters for 1876, 1878-1879.

Sir John Kirk, consul at Zanzibar - miscellaneous.

Dr John Ludwig Krapf, first missionary in Kenya - copy of a “Treaty of Amity and Commerce” between Sehela Selassie, King of Shoa and Captain Harris in the name of H M the Queen, 1841, remarks on the island of Zanzibar with details on the climate, products, trade, the inhabitants, slavery and a table of commodity prices, a letter re slavery, a sketch of the probable course of the Haines river, 1844, copy of a letter to Prince Albert 1854, copy of a letter to Bishop Gobat of Jerusalem, notes on the beginning of the Uganda mission. Journals include: a journey from Ankober to Massawa, 1842, a voyage from Aden to Zanzibar 1843-1844, a journey to the islands of Pemba, Tanga and Mombas, 1844, a journey to the country of the Wanika tribe at Rabai and visit of the Wakamba people at Endila, 1845, a journey to Dshembo, Dshogni, Likoni, Rabai, Empia and the vicinity, 1845, a 40 mile journey to Takaongo, 1845. Other journals give details of a journey to Ukambani and a two month’s residence there, 1841, a journey to Usambara, 1852, a memoir on the East African Slave Trade – its effects, the means to be applied for its suppression etc.

Rev William Salter Price, secretary and director of the East Africa mission - memo relating to Rev T H Sparshott, 1875, list of buildings completed and in progress at Freretown, the duties of Mr T H Harris in connection with the Industrial Settlement of the CMS, a proclamation against the slave trade from the Sultan of Zanzibar, 1876, extracts from journals for 1874-1876.

Rev John Rebmann - report on ten years work in East Africa, 1855, personal expenditure for the year 1857, journals for 1846-1849 including an account of a journey to Jagga, 1848, a journey to Teita in 1847, a journey in 1849 to Madjame in Kiriama, called by the Swahilis Jagga, an Annual Letter for 1869.

John Radford Streeter, lay superintendent - examples of writing by Godoma Christians, 1880, and Annual Letters, 1878-1879.

Nyanza Mission, 1876-1882

The Letter Book for 1876-1882 contains copies of outgoing correspondence from Secretaries at headquarters to missionaries and others. Most letters are instructions to new missionaries recently arrived at the mission. An index to names is included.

The letters are very varied in their content: lists of articles the missionaries are to take with them eg a bedstead, compass, pocket filters; a memo on the plans for the future of the Victoria Nyanza mission after a conversation with Mr Stanley; a letter to His Majesty King Mtesa, ruler of Uganda, from the committee of the CMS.

The two Mission Books, 1876-1880 contain copies of Original Papers such as letters and journals copied in full for the use of the committee in London. A note of receipt is made for other papers. An index to names is given. Letters include those from Lieutenant G Shergold Smith re his voyage to Zanzibar; from Mr J G O’ Neill regarding his exploration of the River Kingani, 1876; Rev A M Mackay on his journey up the river in “The Daisy”; an account of a journey from Bagamoyo to Mpwapwa in 1876 with a list of deaths, desertions and dismissals on the way. Included also is a letter from Lieutenant G Shergold Smith on a journey from Kagei to Ukerewe Island; an account of the murder of Shergold Smith by natives written by Rev C T Wilson; a letter from Mr C Stokes written at the village of Kiungo, 6 days march from Bagamoyo, 1878; a detailed description of the different tribes of the area by Mr J T Last, 1879; a letter from Rev G Litchfield re his work at Rubaga; a copy of a letter to King Mtesa, asking for permission for missionaries to travel freely within his Kingdom.

The Victoria Nyanza Sub-Committee Minutes are included – this committee supervised the commencement and conduct of the mission. Included are signed agreements entered into by Ralph Burton, W C Tytherleigh, George Sneath and James and William Robertson.

The Original Papers, 1876-1880 contain the papers sent by the mission secretary to headquarters in London. They consist mostly of letters, journals and reports of missionaries and others such as catechists, schoolmasters, doctors, lay agents, industrial agents and lay evangelists. Miscellaneous papers include letters from the Foreign Office and from CMS agents in Alexandria and Zanzibar. The rest of the papers are arranged alphabetically by individual.

Some of the individuals included are listed below with an idea of the type of correspondence to be found in their papers:

Dr Edward John Baxter, medical missionary - miscellaneous.

George James Clark, lay agent - journal of journey from Bagamoyo to Mpwapwa, 1876.


Alfred John Copplestone, industrial agent - journal of a journey from Uyui to Lake Nyanza, 1879.

Robert William Felkin, medical missionary- journal for 1878-1879 giving details of a meeting with the King and his chiefs, a private diary of a voyage by river steamer from Berber to Khartoum, 1878 and from Khartoum to Shambe, 1878.

Colonel Charles George Gordon – a map of the route from Lado to Urondogani near Owen Falls showing physical features, sites of military stations and routes taken by Speke, Grant and Baker.

Dr John Kirk (later Sir), British Consul General—miscellaneous.

James Thomas Last, lay agent - account of a visit to Giriama, 1877, drawings of arrow-heads, wooden flasks and the camp at Mlali, plans of the mission settlement and buildings at Mpwapwa, 1878, a description of the tribes in the area, vocabulary in Swahil, Kiseguhha, Kinguru etc 1878.

Alexander Murdoch Mackay, lay agent and evangelist - account of a journey up the Kingani river, July 1876, a description of the hospitality extended to them by the local chief on a journey to Tanga and back to Bugamoyo.

Lieut George Shergold Smith, leader of the mission - report from F Holmwood of his exploration of the Kingani River 1876, list of expenditure in cloth and beads for food and tribute of a small caravan from Sadani to Kagei, 1877, copy of a diary for 15-27 October 1877, notes and sketches on customs, buildings, clothes and furniture, 1877, journal for November and December 1877, letter to his mother giving an account of the exploration of the Simeyu and Ruwana rivers in October 1877.

Rev Charles Thomas Wilson - account of a march from Bagamoyo to Mpwapwa, 1876, letter written at Usukuma about a journey of 8 days, 1878, an account of the history and superstitions of the Waganda people, an account of the murder of Shergold-Smith, list of Kiganda words, 1878, letter to the King of Uganda, Mtesa, 1879, lists of the demands to be granted by Mtesa before the establishment of a new mission, 1879, outfit lists for missionaries, houses, stations and general stores, 1879.

EXTRACTS

South Africa Mission

Reel 315 Mission Book M1 Journal of Rev Francis Owen, August to November 1837

“Aug 15 1837 …We took up our quarters in a small village on the banks of the river containing not more than half a dozen huts. There are several small villages on the south bank of the Fugala. These were lately peopled by a tribe of Zoolus called the Amapiesi or Hyena people, but who shortly before our arrival fled to the number of 400 to Port Natal having suspected Dingarn of some design upon them. During their flight, for some cause or other , they put to death Mambayendi their chief. …We were soon furnished with a hut; sweet milk etc by order of the head man who seemed very civil. Having heard a great deal of the rats which infest the Zoolu huts, I concluded I should have no sleep, especially as I saw them by troops, before I went to bed, pass from the cattle field into the different huts, but to my great comfort we were freer from them than I expected.

Aug 16, 1837 About 11 o’clock the baggage bearers, 23 or 24 in number, having crossed the Fugala which had just become fordable, with Gambuji a confidential servant of the King at their head, advanced toward the village with a short quick step brandishing their sticks, & singing a Zoolu war song…. The country on the other side of the Fugala formed a striking contrast to that which we left. A beautifully wooded & sloping country was now exchanged for naked hills which could boast of nothing but grass. We passed the Clomanthleen Njame or black shields where we dined on sour milk. This being the first Zoolu town I had seen I felt much interested in walking round. In the midst of the town is a large vacant area surrounded by a fence, on the outside of this fence which is circular the huts are disposed in rows: an outer fence encloses the whole town. A segment of the circular town at that part of it which is opposite the principal entrance is cut off by a fence, & in this segment, which is called the Isigorthlo, are several huts appropriated to distinguished personages. Only the military towns or barracks as they may be termed have these Isigorthlos. A regiment is stationed at each town under several Indoonas or Captains. The huts at this town were nearly all empty, the regiment being engaged in the war with Umselekaz. We rode forward to a large village called Nimiki, where we were comfortably accommodated in a hut where there were no rats – An ox was slaughtered for us by order of the Inkorihaz, or female chief of this place….”.

Reel 315 Mission Book M1 Rev Wallace Hewetson’s Journal January to April 1838

“…. Mar 5, 1838 Went to a wild looking place called the camp, a temporary fortress. Here I saw the natives naked living with the settlers – About 30 Zoolus came to their white chief while I was there to receive orders: they were armed with guns. It is a horrid sight to see naked savages armed with these huge elephant guns & bent on murder. I scarcely knew what to advise these people their reasons were so plausible saying “that all this was only in self defence; that Dingarn could not be relied on, & they should now fight for their lives & go to him before he butchered them etc”. There were some white females, who were crying bitterly at these scenes, who refused to be comforted. Oh how little do our friends at home know of our situation in the midst of wars, tumults & murders.

…Mar 7, 1838 Engaged getting my goods ashore. It is very distressing to have our children here, especially my little daughter, as the men are naked & know nothing of delicacy. We need much grace to bring up our little ones exposed to such sights, & often fear that while we are spending our strength to teach these poor creatures true morality our own children may be taught immorality – But God is love.

Mar 8, 1838 ... Some of them have 14 wives, & they are all kind to each other & attached to their husband. They take a great interest in every sort of instruction & will share the last morsel with each other: they never steal the least article from any one, except taken in war.”

Kenya Mission

Reel 317 Mission Book M1 Rev J Muhleisen’s Journal 1843

“…April 22 1843 The Shohos declared that the bargain of yesterday was good for nothing. We had to begin anew with them. Abuna Berroma a Coptic Priest and father-confessor to the Abuna came
today to our camp, on his way to Massowa; he was exceedingly polite but the end of which was that he wished to get a letter of recommendation to the Governor of Massowa from us, to procure permission to carry those slaves through the town without duty, which the Abuna has sent to Egypt as presents for several Bishops. We declared, how we should be glad to render him any assistance in our power in any other way, but as to slaves, we could in no wise meddle with any thing in connexion with their exportation, because it would involve us in a situation, in which we appeared to favour and countenance slavery….”

Reel 318 Mission Book M8 Rev J Rebmann’s Journal March 1847 to March 1848

“… The chiefs then conducted us into the town, where they were joined by a great many others, men and women, to welcome us in a most tumultuous manner. We however soon requested them to cease from this noisy salutation; and when they had received their present and become quiet, we began to seize every opportunity to bear testimony of Him who came into the world to save Sinners. But we found no hearers like those at Kambe, as the people did not know us yet, and therefore entertained much suspicion against us. The town, the population of which may amount to about 1000 souls, is very suitable for a missionary station, on account of its proximity to the Dahalo and Galla countries, with both of which it has some communication by barter; its distance from the sea however renders its access rather difficult. Throughout the year Kauma is well supplied with water, by a small rivulet passing the town at the distance of about one quarter of a mile, and running into the Kilefi-bay. Its situation is rather low, but still it affords some view over the surrounding country, which is entirely covered with wood, their plantations being at some distance from the town in the direction of the territory of Djogni, which lies in the S and SW of Kauma.

About half an hour after night had set in, a horrible, I might almost say, diabolical scene was presented to our eyes. Part of the ceremonies, performed at the initiation into the Order above mentioned, were just going on. A certain tinkling and noise of many people, first heard at a distance, came nearer and nearer, when at once we saw two very stout men, having their faces and the whole upper part of their bodies spotted over with a white colour, while the leathern aprons, they had girded around their loins, were set with small globular bells, that produced the tinkling, and held in their hands certain pieces of wood. They were accompanied by some others, who had only parts of their black faces painted over. All these men, followed as they were, by a great number of children and adults of both sexes, they sat down near us round the fire, which in the night only served to make the scene still more terrific. Nothing could have been more calculated to make one feel as if he were surrounded by infernal beings, holding a turbulent consultation for doing mischief. They kept their seats for about ten minutes, during which such a tumult was prevailing that it would have been impossible to address them. I asked the Wanika of Rabai who were with us, whether the same ceremonies were kept up with them, when they replied, yes they make it still worse. I felt as if we did not yet know half of the works of darkness practised by these pagans. Though we have now lived among them for about 18 months, new facts of the same nature have not ceased yet to come to our knowledge from time to time. Satan has indeed raised strong bulwarks among them, but be of good courage, under the banner of Almighty Captain of our Salvation, we shall gain the victory….

Feb 14/43 In the evening I went to Bunni. Where at a distance I heard the beating of drums, by which these heathens in their blindness believe to be able to expel the papo (an evil spirit, supposed to cause sickness, and other calamities) from sick persons. The sound of the drums are generally accompanied by dancing and singing, which is sometimes continued for days and nights together. They also make use thereby of a certain kind of idols, which call to mind the “fetishes” of Western Africa. The idol is called “Muroi”, but looked upon as “Mulunzu” (God) it consists of a black coloured little stick, of about 2’ in length, which they fixed into the ground, and decorated it with beads and feathers. At the side of the stick they put water in a small vessel, with which, now and then the idol is sprinkled. The leading persons engaged in expelling the bad spirit from the patient are also decorated or rather disfigured with feathers, stuck in their hair, and with hides of a small kind of tigers. The whole is conducted by an Emganga, which word implies the idea; both of a sorcerer and a physician. During all the tumult the sick person is sitting in the midst, giving himself entirely up to the influence, the whole scene is calculated to exercise on him, wherefore it is well conceivable from psychological reasons that the greater or lesser excitement, produced by the noisy spectacle, now and then have some beneficial effect on the patient….”

Reel 320 Original Papers O 10 Short Report on the New Mission Station of Frere Town by Edward Wood Forster

“July 15, 1875

Until very lately the little band of the CMS has been divided; a part residing at Mombasa Town, and the remaining number residing on the mainland, in the district of Rabai, at a locality named Kiseludini, about fifteen miles distant from Mombasa.

Owing however, to several causes, one of them being the difficulty of access, another the difficulty of securing properly storied houses, Mr Price has thought it very desirable to secure a station on the mainland nearer to Mombasa: some locality was very desirable which would be easy of access from Mombasa, exposed, if possible, to the sea-breezes, as much as possible devoid of malarious influences, and one, also, that might be so situated as to interfere with the Arab slave traffic; and this necessity had been for a considerable time under the anxious consideration of the Rev W S Price.

The property to which the name of Frere Town has been given has been purchased from Arab residents of Mombasa….

We hope…that the station of Frere Town will enable the Mission, carried on under the able superintendency of the Revd W S Price, to undertake speedily the housing and culture of freed slaves, and give opportunities to the Missionaries to heal the sick, and preach the Kingdom of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ….”

Reel 321 Original Papers O 11 John William Handford April 23rd 1878

“I was up at 4am the following morning, and we were on our way by day break. Heavy rains had fallen during the night, which together with the spring tides made the plains – lying between Frere Town & Makarungi – about seven miles – in a dreadful condition. I tried to ride my donkey, but it was utterly impossible, for the moment I mounted he sank right down in the mud, so I had to go floundering through it, expecting every step I took to leave my shoe sticking in the mud. To crown all we came upon a huge python – dead – measuring nearly 20 feet; and being unable to turn out of the road, we had to endure the putrefying smell for some time, so that by the time I reached Makarungi I had the fever strong upon me, but pushing on to Ribe I speedily recovered through the kindness of Mr Wakefield, & I was able to proceed on my journey by 2.30pm reaching Toakaralovu – our resting place – at sunset.

The chief brought me as much milk as I could drink & gave up his hut for my accomodation. We started at daybreak the next morning & reached Giriama at 4pm.

When I came to the stream which flows at the bottom of the hill on which their town stands, I stooped down to drink, but was immediately reminded that it was “Maji Ya mumju” (Salt water). It is a beautiful clear stream, and would be a great blessing to these people if it were fresh.

The people immediately came to welcome me extending their hands, & it was very pleasing to see the greeting between the husbands and wives & their children. I was at once struck with the cleanliness of the little settlement. The compound is clearly swept and each house is in good repair. The women are clothed in a lose jacket and dress; and all of them look happy. This is specially marked in the women, for they doubtless feel in a great sense the blessings of Christianity being freed from slavery to which all Wanika women are subjected.

That evening I was suffering from fever, and most of the following day – Sunday – I was vomiting and unable to sit up. This was brought on, I think, by the bad water which I was obliged to drink on the way. Nothing that I took would remain down, until Petros brought me some Wanika medicine & asked me if I would take it. I was only too glad to try anything. It was a greenish liquid. The effect was simply miraculous, for in less than ten minutes I was myself again and enjoyed a hearty meal….

At sunset when the bell rings everyone comes to prayers. If the women are preparing the evening meal it does not matter, they leave their work & come.

Another thing that marks them as a christian people is the great attention paid both by father and mother to the little children. While the wife is pounding the corn, the husband may frequently be seen nursing the child. Physically the Giriama christians are much superior to the surrounding people which plainly testifies to their moral lives….”

Reel 323 Original Papers O16 An account of an excursion to the country of the Wanika Tribe at Rabbay, and visit of the Wakamba people at Endila by Dr John Ludwig Krapf, January 1845

Wednesday 29th of January 1845

Desiring to make a repeated address to the Wanikas at Rabbay about my intention of settling down among them, I set out from Mombas on the 29th of Jan before sun-rise. My guides were Abdulla (a native of India) and a soldier, whom the governor of the fort had placed at my disposal for the case of emergency. Nobody of Mombas did interfere in the least with my journey; nobody did ask me about the country, which I intended to visit, nor about the object, which I had in view. None even of the Mahamedan chiefs, who formerly claimed an authority over the immediate vicinity of the Wanika country, did step forth, to press upon me the necessity of taking one of them as a guide.

All was settled in the most quiet way, and left to my own private arrangement, as I had formerly wished that it should be the case. This independence from the local authorities and from the Mahamedan party of chiefs, I owe to Ali Ben-Nasser’s death in the battle at Siwi. It is now evident, that he, the governor of Mombas, under the pretence of officiousness and care for my safety, did send spies with me, who informed him of my proceedings and who only harassed me by their underhand dealing and by their greediness.

My little boat glided gently and swiftly along the creek, described in former journals. The scenery of the country around the bay was less pretty at this dry season, as the planters are wont to set on fire the dry grass in all directions, in order to improve the soil and make way to the new grass which thrives with luxuriancy, after the first rainy showers have visited the land.

We reached the latter part of the creek at noon, when the tide compelled us to disembark and to make the remainder of the way on foot. After our arrival at Abdalla’s plantation and cottage (which is scarcely a mile off from the creek), we learned, that very few people resided at present at the village of Rabbay, but all were scattered over their plantations, as had been the case on my first visit. Abdalla therefore suggested, that I should call for the Waze or elders, who should conduct me up to their capital in the forest. I did not object to this plan, hoping, the Wanikas would in the mean be assembled and ready for listening to my address….”

Nyanza Mission

Reel 327 Mission Book M1 1877 An account of journey from Bagamoyo to Mpwapwa Sept 1876 Rev C T Wilson to Rev H Wright

“We left Bagamoyo on July 28th, but our practical start was made from Gunira, as we had to wait there for an interpreter. Our caravan consisted of 140 pagaazi, or Natives, and four donkeys, carrying cloth, beads, stores, iron-work, boat-building tools, personal effects &c. We had also an interpreter, three men to load the donkeys, put up and take down the tent, and two personal servants. I had charge of the caravan, and William Robertson accompanied me and had oversight of the men.

We left Gunera, which is the first march out from Bagamoyo, on Aug 1st. We had on the whole, thank God, a prosperous march. We were a little troubled by rain on the earlier part of the journey, but generally had fine weather. The route we took, and which we left to the discretion of the kilangozi, or guide, was the new one to the north of that followed by Stanley.

We had very good health till we reached Phuni, a village a little beyond the Pongwe Mountains, between seventy and eighty miles march from the coast. Robertson was taken ill on the way to this village, and I soon after we reached it, both of us with some liver complaint. I, I am thankful to say, soon recovered by judicious dosing, though I was weak for some time. I think the cause of our illness was the bad water we had been compelled to drink for some time. I am thankful to say I have been perfectly well ever since. I never had the slightest touch of fever, the whole time, owing, I think, to a frequent use of small doses of quinine.

Small-pox appeared in our caravan, and we lost three men by it, but we had no other sickness to speak of. We have heard several alarming reports of fighting on the latter part of our journey: but through God’s good providence, we have never met with any hostility on the part of the Natives.

Our men were very lazy, especially at the beginning of the march, but at the end we made some very long marches. I am glad to say we reached here without the loss of a single animal or load, or a single desertion.

We reached Mpwapwa on September 18th, having been forty-one days on the road….”

Reel 330 Original Papers O 16 Alexander M Mackay’s Diary
1st January 1877

“The good chief this morning made me a present of a large Kibaba of new milk, which I enjoyed immensely being the first I have tasted since Mombas. His house was neater and cleaner than any I have found on the whole road, and he himself is a Mohammedan, but with none of the self importance of the usual tribe of members of the true Faith – He changed a Rupee for me as my coppers were done, and I allowed him 14 peis on the transaction – further he accompanied us for a couple of miles on the road to Amboni. An arm of the sea near his village required a little wading above the knees, and the way is generally hereabout much rougher than that north of this. To avoid the frequently flooded low ground the path goes over the ups and downs of the higher ground, which makes marching troublesome.

Breakfast at a village on the way – very many cattle – in front of a another village close by: I observed two neat graves with an attempt at tombstones but of course no inscription – the tombstones were in the shape of a cross (Grecian).

I held a palaver here about Wabamasi. The chief men retired to hold a “shauri” before they came to tell me the name of the place but the old chief previously promised to collect men. The result of the Shauri was that the name of this important village was not to be promulgated! I said it was of not the slightest consequence to me, as I had already got about 200 men in towns with names, and I wanted only a few more which I could easily find in Tanga. They then were anxious to tell me their city was called Suponi, but I gave them to understand that their information was valueless.

After a long day’s tramping through dense forest and open country, we sought eagerly for a Shamba at which to pass the night. Just as it was getting dark, and we had almost despaired of finding a house, the joyful cry of some children at a distance to the left directed us to the spot. We found a couple of low houses with tolerably pleasant people. But for the first time on this journey, I had to sleep outside. It rained only a little, and my waterproof sheet protected me perfectly….

Slavery, in spite of what people think, is being carried on in broad daylight along the whole coast here and to an alarming extent. Is it not a disgrace on the English name to commence stopping the slave trade and to leave the traffic scarcely a whit better than before any steps were taken in that direction? The squadron costs a vast sum of money yearly and I may say accomplishes next to nothing. They have no powers to go ashore and at sea they are easily avoided by the acute dhow sailors. What becomes of the tens of thousands of poor captives who are yearly driven up the coast from Kilwa to Malindi. The territory is the Sultan’s yet the slaves march in broad daylight thro’ all the coast towns where there are Liwalis (governors) representing the Sultan, and who could easily stop the infernal traffic if they desired. But only let not England think the slave trade is nearly exterminated on the East coast of Africa. I herewith protest and allege that it is being carried on as strongly as it ever could have been….”

 

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